Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
August 01, 2014, 09:17:25 AM

Home Help Search Login Register

Pages: [1] 2 3
Print
Author Topic: DIY quarterpipe assistance  (Read 55807 times)
lien 2 tail
50+ Bitch!
*

Status 0
Offline Offline

Posts: 72



« on: February 16, 2009, 10:42:12 AM »

Hey guys, me and a few of my buddies wanna build a concret qp, about 4' or 5' tall and about 4' or 5' wide with a "not too steep, not too melow" tranny at a slab we found. None of us have rally fucked with concrete before so if I could get some advice thatd be much appreciated, ive been tryin to find some shit on the interweb but im not so cratfy at "surfing" it. (Number of bags?, Framing? Filling? Curing?, etc), any of that shit would help a whole bunch. Thanks
Logged
stewpidphuck
Living Legend
*****

Status 12
Offline Offline

Posts: 723



« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2009, 01:07:56 PM »

make a form out of wood first, it makes it much easier. fill with rocks and/or other filler. then you will need cement and trowels. mix the cement and then throw it on there. dont use the finishing trowel until its almost dry for smoothest results. your probley gonna need a lot of bags. play it by ear and you will get better down the line
Logged

lien 2 tail
50+ Bitch!
*

Status 0
Offline Offline

Posts: 72



« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2009, 01:34:54 PM »

thanks buddy, so should we just use like a 2 x 4 to smooth it out till its almost dry? I also heard that you wanna mix the crete till its a mud like consistincey is that correct also? Keep em comin yall
Logged
malinas
Living Legend
*****

Status 2
Offline Offline

Posts: 1827


« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2009, 04:15:37 PM »

a couple things to know:
make sure to add as lease amount of water as possible, you want it really thick and somewhat dry( well mixed though).
you wanna buy a pool trowel, that's shaped like an oval or a trowel shaped like a triangle, get one that's a bout 8 inches long(metal).
yeah use the 2/4 as a guide to make sure everything is even and flush

here's some help:
http://s626.photobucket.com/albums/tt341/elpasoskateparkassociation/DIY%20bank%20to%20quarter/
Logged

goodbye sweet dreams, goodbye sweet dreams.
lien 2 tail
50+ Bitch!
*

Status 0
Offline Offline

Posts: 72



« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2009, 07:58:15 PM »

thanks malinas, those photos help alot. hypathetically speaking, if we wanted to use pool coping, would we set it with mortar or crete? Though i advised agaisnt it, my buddies wanna use regular ol metal coping, so would we set that first and then smooth the crete up to it? like i said guys, every bit helps, and i really appreciate it
Logged
malinas
Living Legend
*****

Status 2
Offline Offline

Posts: 1827


« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2009, 12:16:33 AM »

if you were to use steel coping, you would, weld rebar to the underside of it and then sink it either into the cinder blocks that you use as a back wall or if you don't stack a wall(though I recommend you do) you can tie them into your fill. and you should pack the pipe with hard objects that way the coping doesn't dent.
if you are gonna use pool block, you'll wanna have a flat surface to mount them. on that dick you'll want to brush on some concrete bonding adhesive and then make a mortar paste with some of the bonding glue mixed in.(once again make sure it's dry and then set the pool coping and push them in real hard and give them a few days and maybe add some more concrete to make the coping stronger on the ramp.
Logged

goodbye sweet dreams, goodbye sweet dreams.
colorblindbowen
Team Nice Tits
Living Legend
*

Status 17
Offline Offline

Posts: 711



« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2009, 12:25:33 AM »

a couple things to know:
make sure to add as lease amount of water as possible, you want it really thick and somewhat dry( well mixed though).
you wanna buy a pool trowel, that's shaped like an oval or a trowel shaped like a triangle, get one that's a bout 8 inches long(metal).
yeah use the 2/4 as a guide to make sure everything is even and flush

here's some help:
http://s626.photobucket.com/albums/tt341/elpasoskateparkassociation/DIY%20bank%20to%20quarter/



Yeah, mix in water VERY slowly.  It depends on what you have to mix in.  In my experience, a wheelbarrow is good for about two bags, and in that case, get yourself a gallon of water and add about 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon and start to mix that up.  Mix it really really really thoroughly.  Pretty much mix that until you have a blob of mud surrounded by dry cement.  Continue to add splashed of water while stirring, until you have a big blob of mud and no dry cement around it.  A friend of mine once said that it's better to have a dryer mix than one that is too wet.
Logged

"If you're gonna do nosewheelies, do fucking nosewheelies bro!"
bailgun
Global Moderator
Living Legend
*****

Status 223
Offline Offline

Posts: 6517



« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2009, 05:21:13 AM »

^^^troof^^^if your mix is dry, you can always add water.
if its too wet, you're just fucked and end up with really brittle crete.

i had to learn the hard way by wasting money and ruining what could've been a cool little spot back home.

Logged

lien 2 tail
50+ Bitch!
*

Status 0
Offline Offline

Posts: 72



« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2009, 07:49:22 AM »

are there any brands of concrete yall like, Quickcrete or what?
Logged
colorblindbowen
Team Nice Tits
Living Legend
*

Status 17
Offline Offline

Posts: 711



« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2009, 11:41:05 AM »

That's all that I've ever used.  I've been told to add a shovel full of portland cement by some dudes.  I've done it both ways, and I can't really tell the difference.
Logged

"If you're gonna do nosewheelies, do fucking nosewheelies bro!"
malinas
Living Legend
*****

Status 2
Offline Offline

Posts: 1827


« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2009, 12:53:48 PM »

if you have it try spec mix.
Logged

goodbye sweet dreams, goodbye sweet dreams.
elastic back
DFL
Living Legend
******

Status 183
Offline Offline

Posts: 5220



WWW
« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2009, 01:35:39 PM »

dang, i tried answering this in the "help" section. should have looked here first to save myself the trouble. you all said everything i said and then some.
Logged

stewpidphuck
Living Legend
*****

Status 12
Offline Offline

Posts: 723



« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2009, 02:58:01 PM »

also at the bottom it might be hard to get the concrete to stick to the ground. most likely the bottom will chip. after it naturally chips use some kind of bondo or smoother cement. if you dont know what i mean you will soon
Logged

lien 2 tail
50+ Bitch!
*

Status 0
Offline Offline

Posts: 72



« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2009, 05:52:45 PM »

yall are helping a whole lot. we went out there today and low and behold...we forgot that there was a earthn filled pool with coping! so now we get to use that. I stopped by lowes and there was like 4 different types of quickcrete, fast set/ high strength/ crack resistant/ and "multi purpose. Any preferences? we still gotta shit load of work to do, prob about 2 weekends worth, and i think we might set the coping in first, unless yall think thatll cause a problem...oh ya and thanks EB your little description helps alot man.

Thanks fer puttin up with my stupidity, i wanna go into building parks life and this project will help get that shit in gear. Ill see if i can figure out how to post pictures and see what yall think

thanks again..every little bit helps, we wanna make this shit legit
Logged
elastic back
DFL
Living Legend
******

Status 183
Offline Offline

Posts: 5220



WWW
« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2009, 05:52:25 AM »

I stopped by lowes and there was like 4 different types of quickcrete, fast set/ high strength/ crack resistant/ and "multi purpose. Any preferences?

fast set is good if you have to do it and jet real quick, but crack resistant is probably best since it will be bashed over and over with skateboards. good luck.
Logged

Pages: [1] 2 3
Print
Jump to:  


Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC DeviantSMF by Eponnox-www.ztut.com