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Author Topic: DIY quarterpipe assistance  (Read 35801 times)
fuckababiessoftspot123
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« Reply #15 on: November 27, 2009, 01:48:29 PM »

just get 4 bags of quikcrete and two shovels and another person and youll understand as you do it and itll work out. so pretty much, just fuckin do it
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bailgun
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« Reply #16 on: November 27, 2009, 01:50:32 PM »

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concretewhore
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« Reply #17 on: January 04, 2010, 06:13:23 PM »

That's all that I've ever used.  I've been told to add a shovel full of portland cement by some dudes.  I've done it both ways, and I can't really tell the difference.
portland makes it really smooth
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bailgun
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« Reply #18 on: January 04, 2010, 06:27:07 PM »

That's all that I've ever used.  I've been told to add a shovel full of portland cement by some dudes.  I've done it both ways, and I can't really tell the difference.
portland makes it really smooth
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Ty Burns
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« Reply #19 on: December 10, 2011, 03:52:17 PM »

some friends and i are trying to fix up a DIY quarter. it's pretty jacked (full of holes) but it looks like we need to just resurface it.
it's about 5 ft. high and 8 ft. wide, can anyone give me a estimate on how many bags it'll take and the type of cement?
Thanks
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Salamander
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« Reply #20 on: December 12, 2011, 09:46:08 AM »

some friends and i are trying to fix up a DIY quarter. it's pretty jacked (full of holes) but it looks like we need to just resurface it.
it's about 5 ft. high and 8 ft. wide, can anyone give me a estimate on how many bags it'll take and the type of cement?
Thanks

If you just want a thin layer of something to smooth out the rough spots you can use "Cement All". Only problem with Cement All is that it's about $20 per 55# bag and that size of quarter will probably take 3-4 bags depending on how bad of shape it's in.
Is the quarter in a good location and worth the cost of repair?
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krusher
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« Reply #21 on: December 12, 2011, 08:32:11 PM »

With cement all you really only want to use it in the cracks and divots. I wouldn't trust it as a long term resurfacer. To resurface (we have tried so many times at work) means to redo...

If you do use Cement all, pour stone or Rapid rock, it is best when you really work it in. Pour it, wait a bit, then work it and keep working it till it is dark and dry.

This is all you need if your damage is a half inch or less
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Ty Burns
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« Reply #22 on: December 13, 2011, 04:12:30 PM »

The majority of the damage is just from the old 'crete crumbling away leaving the surface all rough and pockmarked. The biggest hole is getting to be around 6 or 7in.
With cement all you really only want to use it in the cracks and divots. I wouldn't trust it as a long term resurfacer. To resurface (we have tried so many times at work) means to redo...

If you do use Cement all, pour stone or Rapid rock, it is best when you really work it in. Pour it, wait a bit, then work it and keep working it till it is dark and dry.

This is all you need if your damage is a half inch or less
What I really need is a long term solution, is there anything you would suggest?
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krusher
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« Reply #23 on: December 13, 2011, 05:04:35 PM »

You might be able to cut the bad part out and redo it.

We really need to see some pictures
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Frank
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« Reply #24 on: December 14, 2011, 06:38:50 AM »

We've had some luck mixing some portland, sand and bonding agent together and laying it down. Some spots have been skated for 6 months now and are not chipping away or anything. It might not be permanent, but seems to work.
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Salamander
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« Reply #25 on: December 14, 2011, 09:10:37 AM »

You might be able to cut the bad part out and redo it.

We really need to see some pictures

x2 on what Krusher said.^
Sounds like it wasn't done correctly from the first build. If you want to fix it good for long term use I would cut out the bottom so it's got a good 3-4" base and either pour a 3" layer right over everything and tie it in with rebar or jackhammer out the top layer and repour. Pics would help determine better though.
If it's just the base that's crumbling because it's too thin you can probably just bust that out nice and deep and repour tieing rebar into the old concrete and then just use cement all to patch up the few rough spots. I've found that if you paint over the cement all it will last much longer than if you leave it bare.
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Frank
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« Reply #26 on: December 14, 2011, 01:18:42 PM »

What kind of paint do you use? I've skated some parks that have painted over graffiti and they all have become real slick. A bunch of folks want to paint in my bowl but I'd like to keep it from being too slick.
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Salamander
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« Reply #27 on: December 14, 2011, 02:48:41 PM »

What kind of paint do you use? I've skated some parks that have painted over graffiti and they all have become real slick. A bunch of folks want to paint in my bowl but I'd like to keep it from being too slick.

I've used a Masonry, Stucco & Brick paint found at home depot. You can have them mix pretty much any color you want, it's about $20 per gallon. I have mixed feelings about putting a coat of paint on concrete though. It definately made the surface more slick but as time went on the surface is now perfect. Then again it made some areas slideable that were rough before. Only one way to find out.
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Ty Burns
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« Reply #28 on: December 14, 2011, 04:51:59 PM »

okay, i'm gonna try and get the pictures this weekend.
you guys are helping a ton, thanks!
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Babe, Mr. Ruth if you're Nasty
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« Reply #29 on: January 06, 2012, 05:16:52 PM »

What kind of paint do you use? I've skated some parks that have painted over graffiti and they all have become real slick. A bunch of folks want to paint in my bowl but I'd like to keep it from being too slick.

Use Flat or Matte paint. Gloss will make your shit so slick.
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